OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonphase (ref# 3689.30.31)

The Watch:
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonphase (ref# 3689.30.31); a manual winding chronograph with date and moonphase indication.

The Author:
Gerard Nijenbrinks (1960); horologist and director of Horloge Platform Nederland®, born and living in The Netherlands.


History of this model:
Introduced at the 1999 Basel International Watch Fair, this Speedmaster Professional is one of the rarest in Speedmaster history. Only back in 1985 OMEGA made a (manual winding) Speedmaster Professional with date indication and indication of phase of the moon. That model (345.0809), from which 2000 pieces were made, had a black dial and a stainless steel case. While the current Speedmaster Professional Moonphase has a silver dial, and a 18-carat solid white gold case.


At this point I would like to thank OMEGA for supplying me with a beautiful press-kit and the information and pictures at their web site, which I thankfully used in this review. Other pictures were made with a Ricoh RDC-4200 digital camera of the actual watch with serial# 48407059. The watch was bought at Gaemers Jewels & Watches, The Hague, Netherlands

General:
Although this watch differs quite a lot from the original, it directly shows and feels like a Speedmaster Professional. Interesting to see that it's not only the black dial which gives the Speedmaster it's determining and distinguished look. The shape of the case, crown and pushers, the symmetry of the dial and the heavily domed crystal which rises high above the top of the case are obviously just as important for the looks and feel of a real Speedmaster.

The Case:
The 18-carat white gold case and case back have the same shape and dimensions as the original Speedmaster Professional. The case back even carries the same inscription as it's stainless steel brother, "Flight qualified by NASA for all... etc. Although I wonder if this is meant seriously, as I don't know if the material properties of 18-carat gold would meet NASA's requirements. Besides that the crystal of this watch is made of sapphire in stead of hesalite. For some Speedmaster Professional lovers probably a perfect godsend, but which would probably not pass all impact and temperature change tests. The serial number of the watch is etched at the same place as usual on one of the legs, as on two of the other legs gold hallmarks are stamped. The crown is signed with the Omega symbol.

The Movement:
Omega caliber 1866, equivalent to Nouvelle Lemania caliber 1884 "haute luxe". Diameter 27.5mm (12'''), height 6.87mm, 18 jewels, 21,600 vph, manual winding, 48 hours power reserve. Monometal four-legged balance, flat hair balance spring. Fine adjustment via cam screw.



Just to refresh your mind: The basic movement of this family, as a chronograph with second, minute and 12-hour counter in standard finish, is the Lemania 1873 (Omega 1861). This same movement is available in a "haute luxe" version, with "cotes de geneve" decoration and without plastic parts, as 1874 (Omega 863). It's available as well without the 12-hour counter of the chronograph as 1870 and 1872 (standard and "haute luxe"), which to my knowledge are not used by Omega. Further it's available in a 24-hour version including the 12-hour chronograph counter as 1877 and 1878 (standard and "haute luxe") not used by Omega as well. Finally, and as used in the reviewed watch, it's available in a version with moonphase disc and a coaxially arranged hand-indicated date as 1883 and 1884 in standard and "haute luxe" finish. In the past, in certain special models, Omega had the Lemania 1874 movement c.o.s.c. certified and indicated it as 864. And there has been a sceletized version (by Armin Strom) indicated as 867.

The Dial:
Obviously, the most eye catching difference between the original Speedmaster Professional and this Moonphase version is the silver dial, and as a result of that, the black in stead of white hands. Secondly the moonphase directly attracts the eye, as the date indication is only mentioned later. The position of the Omega brand name and symbol, and even more the position of the Speedmaster and Professional scripts are totally different to the normal Speedmaster as well.


Further the thick white gold applied index markers are quite different to the original white thin index lines.

Omega, very well considered, left the luminous material out of the chronograph second hand tip. When the tip should have been filled with luminous material, it should obstruct the moonphase when the chronograph is stopped.

The Strap and Buckle:
The louisiana croco leather strap and solid 18-carat white gold personalized folding buckle are a real class act. The strap beautifully padded, firmly and thoroughly stitched, not too shiny and not too dull - just as it should be. But the special folding buckle certainly needs your attention. Look how the end of the strap (with the holes in it), secured by two pins, goes into and under the inside part of the buckle.

When closing the buckle there's no loose strap end at the outside of the strap, and there's no skin contact with the metal from which the edges could irritate (at least that's what it always does at my wrist). At the inside there's the end of the strap between your skin and the buckle. The buckle can't be fit to any leather strap, while the needed strap doesn't have a pin notch at the end.

Packing and Documentation:
The packing of the watch is somewhat sober. It's the same black leather box with the white outer cardboard box as used for the regular Speedmaster Professional. Beautiful and sufficient of course, but for such a special watch Omega could have done something special on the box as well in my opinion. There's a booklet specially for this movement included, and an adjustment pin which is stored in a nice black leather pouch with carrying strap.


Personal remarks:
After wearing the watch for just over a week now, I know for sure that this will be one of my "keepers". What struck me was the difference the white gold material made. Compared to a stainless steel Speedmaster Professional, it's softer and friendlier in color and appearance; it even feels warmer. The bezel of my watch reads "TACHYMÈTRE" with the French accent. The accuracy of the watch is within acceptable limits, it runs approximately +4 seconds per 24 hours. In every day use readability is perfect even under most difficult conditions. Just the date needs a second glance to read. It's a watch which gets a lot of credibility, even from people not knowing where they're looking at.

As English isn't my mother tongue, there will be writing errors in my review I assume. If you spot any which are annoying, please let me know and I will be happy to correct them. If you should have questions concerning the watch on items which I probably forgot to mention, please do not hesitate to contact me by email: gerard@nijenbrinks.nl

I hope you've enjoyed reading this review, and would like you to post any remarks at the Omega Watch Forum.

Gerard Nijenbrinks